Seriously though, on the trail, when you are depending on the meals you have brought along, having something be a total “FAIL” is more than disappointing, it can be a trip ruining disaster or worse.  We have to depend on what we have brought along, and it has been a huge investment in terms of labor and weight to get to the point of adding the boiling water.  Even with the amount of importance that trail food can have, that does not mean we need to have invested our life savings in the food for a two week hike.

Learning to make your own meals has a very steep learning curve.  I’ve tried doing a few things myself, with mixed results.  Then, today I read the most amazing book.  All of that trial and error experimenting has gone out the window, now I have a guide book to get me where I want to go without suspiciously sampling Meal X ever again.  It’s well written, has clear recipes, and solid information.  I’ll admit I have not tried any of the recipes yet (my dehydrator is still packed in a box…somewhere) but I have  no doubts that they are very accurate.

In addition, it allows us to take control of the contents.  My husband and I both need low-sodium meals, and that’s not something that has been addressed by companies such as Mountain House, even though I was told over a  year ago that low sodium meals were in the works.  Unlike many hikers, we no longer need high calorie meals either–due to health problems, we are not physically able to burn off 8,000 calories in a day.  Whether its on a bike or on foot, we now have a much more leisurely approach to the whole process, and our bodies demand we take the time to smell the flowers, experience the moment, and watch the birds flying by a lot more often than we did at twenty-something.  Even with that, we also can’t pack 60 pound packs over mountain tops, and weight is probably more important for us than ever before, as our strength is decreasing as well as our endurance.  Armed with these recipes, we can make the adjustments to the recipes to stick to our medical diets without worries.

So what is this mysteriously wonderful book?  It’s called Backpack Gourmet by Linda Frederick Yaffe.  It’s not new–it’s been out for over a decade, but I just read it via Kindle.  Thankfully, it’s not focused on faddish foods that will make us grimace at the ingredients, but remains just as relevant today as it was when it was initially published.  It’s also the very first book that I can honestly say, hey, here is a really good recipe book to use as a starting point to preparing good, inexpensive packable meals for backpacking, bicycle camping, or any other time we’d want to pack along fast and easy meals.

On that note though, I’m going to leave you taking a look at the book and trying to get your hands on a copy while I go hunt for the location of my dehydrator and vacuum sealer.  I have a feeling that vacuum sealing some of these meals before storing them will make them a lot easier to pack AND store.

It’s a kit designed for quick departure for an unknown period of time and unknown reason.  Nobody markets the ultimate bug out kit because there is no uniformity to the real ultimate bug out kit.

Sacrilege, you think?

Nope, it’s plain and simple, a bug out kit, ultimate or not, has to be tailored to the person who will potentially use it.  What might be useful for me might be utterly useless to you, and what might be essential for you might not be very important to me.  Even with that said, we can look at some ideas behind a bug out kit.

For some people, bug out kits are designed for extensive situations and long term use.  In my case, the bug out kit is regarded as that truly emergency gotta-leave-now situation.  It’s the absolute bare essentials, and the thought is that it is ready to go with no more than five minutes to add additional materials to it.  It has to be ultra portable too, since I have no way of knowing what kind of emergency it would be.

That means it’s in my backpack.  That IS my bug out kit.  Sure I have additional items, but this is my absolute got-to-have kit.

So we start off with the backpack.  It has to fit the user.  That means the belt will adjust to their size, the shoulder straps are adjusted to their size, and it’s not too long for their torso.  There are an incredible number of packs available, and while an external frame pack offers more options in terms of tying things on and carrying heavier loads, the less expensive internal frame packs work just fine for me.  Choose one with well stitched seams of sufficiently sturdy fabric.  Most people prefer darker colors such as green, camo, olive, brown, tan, etc. for their bug out packs, as compared to the neon colors that climbers and hikers often choose.

Your bug out pack will then carry your essentials for living.  The core of those essentials are food, water, and shelter.  Additional ones are heat (in cold areas or for cooking food), clothing, medicines, and hygiene.  Some people like to also include money, comfort item (candy, Bible, etc.) and weapons for defense or hunting.

We’ll focus on the core right now, starting with food.

Food has to be portable, easy to prepare, and preferably neither bulky nor heavy.  It needs to be within budget too, and provide maximum nutritional value while also considering things such as menu fatigue and comfort.  Face it, we’re used to variety.  If we are faced with a week of the same thing every day, we start to stress, and in a bug out situation, we undoubtedly already have enough to stress over.  I happen to think actual military MREs are great, sealed in their own package to prevent weather and water from spoiling them, and have a pretty decent storage life.  They are easy to eat as-is, but can also be heated using a minimal amount of water with the included heater.  In addition, for most people with average caloric output, one “meal” will suffice for the entire day, running 900-1400 calories.  It’s packaged in a way that makes it easy to spread it throughout a day as well.  The problem is, they are not only fairly expensive, they are incredibly heavy and bulky.  To carry seven of them in your backpack, along with other minimal gear, I strongly suggest you had best be involved in a consistent physical training program and not too long in the tooth either.  My solution?  I mix and match my food, accommodating my budget, ability, and space.  I think it’s a good idea too, as it’s a case of diversity, and diversity can be a huge asset when faced with the unknown.

I strongly recommend at least 7 days of food in a bug out pack.  With most people’s physical abilities, we’re also confined to packs staying between 20-30 lbs too.  So what else besides 2 or 3 MREs?

For a lighter pack, I opt for Mountain House meals.  Try them before you stock up, and I’m serious about that.  I’ve eaten them, when camping or enduring emergencies.  They are  not all created equally, and my favorites aren’t necessarily your favorites.  I happen to despise their chicken teriyaki with rice meal, yet it’s one of their most popular meals.  (I thought it looked like barf, and tasted too sweet to be appetizing too.)  I really like their beef stew and their chicken breast with mashed potatoes.  Their blueberry cheesecake is better than most mixes designed for use in a home kitchen, even if desserts aren’t exactly “essential.”  Chili mac isn’t bad.  There are also other brands of freeze dried foods.  Sampling them means you and your companions can choose the meals that are most agreeable to you.  Meals come in single versions, 2 person, and 4 person, although not all meals are available in all packaging.  These meals typically have a fairly extended shelf life too, which means you don’t have to rotate them out of your pack that often.  I’ve also eaten meals that were long expired, and it didn’t cause even a digestive upset, although it might not have been as tasty as it would have been had it been eaten sooner.  The key is to keep them reasonably cool and dry, which means you don’t store your pack in the car continually, and certainly not in the shed.  (If you do keep it in your car, which might not be a bad idea, remember to rotate at least semi-annually, and replace ALL food, water, chemicals, medications, etc.)

So I’ve put in two MREs, and five freeze dried meals in my pack.  My partner has three MREs and four freeze dried meals.  Half of our freeze dried meals are two person meals. That means we’ve covered most of the seven day thing.   Now, we need to fill in  some food requirements.  So what do I choose?

It’s still got to be portable, easy to eat, easy to carry, and have an extended shelf life of at least six months.  I package most items into zip lock bags, both for organizing them and for protection.  Granola bars, dried fruit, ramen noodles, instant rice, sugar, seasonings, tea bags, instant coffee, creamer, instant oatmeal, instant grits, instant mashed potatoes, powdered milk, individual sealed hard candies, and similar items are among my go-to items.  These are not primary sources of nutrition, but rather fill items for convenience while on the move, as well as to increase the calorie content for a hard day.  Some items, such as tea, coffee, cocoa, and hard candies, are comfort items.

Next comes the method of eating and cooking.  I actually pack this weird thing that is like a stubby spoon on one end and fork on the other, which is used by chefs for tasting in restaurants.  Mine was a gift, and purchased at an amazing general and hardware store that carries some odd ball items.  I’ve never used it, but I always include it because it is light, takes up zero room, and would work even if it isn’t ideal.  I also package a fork, spoon, and knife with the knife and fork enclosed in homemade cardboard-and-duct-tape sheaths, then the assembly sealed into a zip lock bag.  Next, is the all purpose pot.  It holds about three cups and was the big pot in a 2 man mess kit.  It has a lid, and the handles fold in.  It’s my cook pot and bowl, all in one.  It’s also a dishpan and wash basin.  It’s a dipper too.  They last a long time, but I have had them eventually develop a tiny pinhole which renders them useless.  I think it was a cheaper brand, like Texsport, that manufactured it, and the whole kits cost around $15.  The big pot is usually all I carry.  Each person needs one, and they don’t weigh much.  I also like to add a 6″ cheap non-stick skillet (cheap ones are thinner and lighter) when we’re backpacking, and ideally would include one in my bug out pack.  Skillets are better for things like corn cakes and pancakes, as well as for frying a bit of freshly caught fish.  If I want to carry oil, for frying something, I rinse out an emptied Mio container, let it air dry for at least 24 hours, and then refill it with vegetable or olive oil.  The container doesn’t leak, but oil does not have a very long shelf life, and nothing is nastier than rancid oil.  The oil, however, is useful for coating your skin to prevent cracked lips, for lubricating something in a pinch, etc. too.  You might want to include one of those containers filled with oil (the Mio container allows for pretty precise application) but remember to rotate it frequently.  We also include a cup, something non breakable.  We happen to carry enamel ones, which can be used to heat directly over the source, although they also cool the contents quickly, as well as scorch lips if  you aren’t careful when they are filled with hot liquids.

So we have food.  We have our cooking stuff.  Now, how will we heat things?

There are a lot of options.  We carry two.  One is in each pack.  The first is an emergency stove that is designed to burn anything from trash to twigs.  It’s great, but it does require a lot of fussing and won’t stand up to months of continual use.  It’s compact, since it folds up flat, and burns literally anything you can feed into the small firebox.  That’s our back up system.  I’ve used it a few times, and don’t recommend it for anything beyond basic heating of water.

The primary stove is a backpacking multi-fuel stove, which requires that we carry a bottle of fuel.  It can burn diesel, white gas, or unleaded gasoline.  We carry white gas in steel bottles.  I prefer stoves that allow the user to simmer, as well as just boil the heck out of something.  I’ve used a lot of types over the years, and I mean actually USED them, day in and day out.  This is one item that you want to be really familiar with if you are going to use it during an emergency situation so that you know exactly how to fill it, pump it up, release pressure, take it apart, light it, and clean it.  Try using it at home for a full week, and I’m not kidding.  If it won’t work at home, it is sure not going to magically start working in the woods or during an emergency!  Be familiar with the sounds it makes (some are noisy) and that way you’ll be aware of any problems when they first arise, preventing a lot of major disasters.  Typically, a bottle of fuel would last us three or four days, so we’d carry two 16 oz. bottles of fuel, with a third being added during cold weather season.

Besides the stoves, you will need reliable fire starting methods.  I recommend using a multi-faceted approach to this.  Include a name brand disposable propane lighter, water proof matches, some kitchen matches, and only add a fire starter if you have bothered to take the time to actually learn how to use it.  They are useless unless you’ve sat down for the hours of practice they take to actually manage to make a fire.  If you opt to carry a firestarter kit, don’t forget to add some kindling.  Nothing is worse than staring at wet wood and shivering.  Many people like to carry fire starters made with cotton balls soaked in petroleum jelly.

Then, it’s time to consider water.  It takes a lot of water for a week, and few people can carry that much, since water weighs roughly ten pounds per gallon and we need a gallon a day per person.  That’s a lot of water!  I have a 1.5 quart canteen and two 1 l. water bottles with each backpack.  I also have water purification tablets, a straw filter, and a small bottle of chlorine bleach.  There is also a bag containing a few coffee filters for removing “the chunks” from suspicious water sources.  It’s not perfect, there are better filtration systems out there, but they are also expensive.  Over time, I have also learned that the glass water purification tablet bottles will get broken, so they are each wrapped and packed inside of a plastic soap container to protect them from impacts.  I don’t keep the bottles and canteen filled, and figure that into my five minute prep time for departure.  It’s about the only thing I’ll have time to do.  We also keep some bottled water on hand at home.

So we have food and water.  Next comes shelter.

Tents, for us, are both heavy and bulky.  We had to cut them out to save on space and weight.  We also live in the humid and often rainy South, with lots of trees.  Our solution for safe and dry sleeping is to use hammocks, ropes, and tarps.  It gets us up off of the ground, eliminating the need for actually sort of both dry and flat ground, and makes it easier to find a suitable place to sleep.  Forget the net hammocks, the backyard cotton ones, etc.  Buy a hammock made from ripstop nylon, aka parachute silk.  Learn how to set it up, and how to lie in it.  (You actually lay sort of diagonally, which makes your body flat rather than U shaped.)  Over the hammock, another line is run, and from this one, we can stretch a tarp to keep off the dew or the rain.  An 8×10′ tarp will allow for plenty of protection from the elements, whether it’s wet or wind.  Some extra line and possibly a couple of stakes will secure it further.  Practice setting it up.  Read forums on hammock camping for more details–it’s very popular with ultra-light backpackers as well.

So that’s rope, a hammock, four tent stakes, some cord for staking down the tarp, and some more cord for running the tarp line.  Now, you need to stay warm in cool weather, right?

There are fancy solutions that are both expensive and lightweight.  While they might be very efficient, I’m not willing to spend the money on them, mostly because we don’t have the really cold weather that other areas in the country get.  I need a less expensive solution than under quilts and expensive sleeping bags, as well as one that adapts to the changeable weather we’re faced with in winter.  Therefore, I have another multi-prong approach to the problem.  I use the following: a wool blanket, a micro-fleece quilted throw, a micro-fiber sheet, and an reusable emergency blanket.  The emergency blanket goes on the bottom, topped with the wool blanket folded in half, and half left hanging off of the hammock.  Next, the wool blanket is topped with the micro-fiber sheet, also left with half hanging off of the hammock.  The hanging blanket/sheet combo is then folded over onto the bed and topped with the micro-fleece quilted throw.  I sleep between the layers of sheet, which keeps the wool blanket clean and off of my skin.  In warmer weather, I eliminate layers.  Always remember to insulate UNDER your body too, or you will chill incredibly quickly in cold weather.  In fact, what you have under  you may well be far more important than what is over you, whether you opt for sleeping on the ground or on a hammock.

I also pack for unknowns in the weather department.  I always include several new “drum liners” in the packs, as well as yard sized trash bags.  These are useful for a lot of things, ranging from impromptu protection from rain to creating a rain resistant backpack cover.  The drum liners can become “sleeping bags” that will do a lot towards staying dry.  They can become the roof of a shelter in foul weather too.  I seal each new folded bag in a zip lock bag, with the size (drum or large) written on the outside.  They weigh very little and take up little space, as well as are not expensive.  Drum liners can also be a great ground cloth, or provide protection from a chilling wind, but they do not breathe at all, which can cause excessive moisture build up and another way to get chilled.

Okay, that’s food, water and shelter, as well as heat & cooking.  So what else should be included?

Clothing.  You want at least one full set of clothes, as well as something to sleep in during cold weather.   That means socks, underwear, pants, and shirt, preferably long sleeved, for your clothing.  You may want to add an extra shirt or sweater as well.  It’s a good idea to include several pairs of socks, since they can help a great deal on everything from morale to miles per day, if walking is necessary.  For sleeping, choose something seasonally appropriate, as well as something that can also serve you in daytime if necessary.  Sweats are good in winter and light cotton in summer.  Have a rain poncho, and a jacket appropriate for the climate too.  Assume you will be departing fully dressed, but include a lightweight pair of “camp shoes” as secondary foot gear.  Include a hat and sturdy gloves.  Here again, I recommend packing them into zip lock bags for protection against moisture.  I break them down into several bags, and include at least three pairs of socks.

Hygiene.  Okay, so you don’t need to worry about looking pretty in an emergency, but soap does a lot more than that.  Hygiene can be important when you are stressed and trying to stay healthy.  Include a wash cloth, a bar of soap sealed in plastic, a small micro fiber towel, mouthwash in a travel size, tooth paste, tooth brush, comb or small brush, hair ties, and for women, some sanitary supplies.  A travel sized bottle of hand sanitizer might also be useful, but these are apt to break down during storage, so make sure to rotate them out on your semi-annual inspection/rotation schedule.

First aid kit.  Forget the prepacked versions.  Most of them have a lot of crap you don’t even know how to use, let alone will use.  They are also too bulky and heavy.  For this operation, you’ll stick to what you know and can use.  Mine usually includes the following: prescription medications for 10 days (don’t forget to rotate these regularly), aspirin, ibuprofen, acetaminophen  generic benadryl, salt, anti-diarrhea pills,  a dozen fabric adhesive bandages, some gauze, some adhesive tape, hydro-cortisone cream, muscle rub, insect repellent   and cold remedy pills.  I’m no medic, and I don’t need a huge kit that I don’t know what to do with anyhow.  If it is worse than what we can manage with this stuff, we will need help anyhow.  This covers our basic issues, and is the same things we use at home.  Larger groups or stronger backs may want to add alcohol and hydrogen peroxide to the list.  I include first aid kits in both of our packs.

Comfort.  These are not essential, but they are really handy and comforting to have.  We include a notepad, pencil, pen, micro lantern, flashlights, spare batteries, and a deck of cards in ours.  Cards pass time when you are forced to sit tight and wait.  Light makes the nighttime far less intimidating, and easier to prepare food or complete other tasks.  Pen/pencil and paper allows you to take notes or leave notes for someone else.   For others, it may be spare glasses, a Bible, a favorite book of poetry, or some other small item.

Extras.  Someone in your group may want to add some of these things to your packs, you may want to add one or more to your own packs as well.

• compass–these will help if you have to cross country, and reduce the chances of becoming disoriented and going in circles or wandering off in the wrong direction.
• Magnifying glass-not only useful for examining something, they can be used with sunlight to start a fire.  They come in many sizes and can be either round or rectangular.
• folding shovel–very useful if you need to dig for any reason, far more efficient than merely using a digging stick.
• axe/machete–can cut wood, shape wood, create walking sticks, and other items.  In close contact, it can become a useful weapon.
• Larger pot–for a group, a single large pot can be useful when preparing hot water or cooking larger quantities of food
• belt knifewith holster–useful and handy for ease of use for cutting many things
• hand gun with holster & spare ammunition–protection, signalling, hunting
• rifle with spare ammunition and shoulder strap–protection and hunting, far more accurate for hunting
• bow and arrows–silent hunting, if user is familiar with its use
• binoculars–useful for looking for things in the distance
• mirror–useful for signalling over distance
• whistle–useful for audio signalling, carries better than just yelling
• para-cord–useful for a lot of things, from running a line to building a snare
• fishing kit–who wouldn’t appreciate fresh fish if they are hungry?
• compact sewing kit–stuff tears, needles and thread can fix it
• duct tape–the magical fix it stuff of the world
• tube of super glue–it works for a lot of stuff, from sealing a cut to re-attaching something
• silicone glue–waterproof glue, fixes almost anything that super glue and duct tape doesn’t.  even can reattach a shoe sole.
• cell phone–communication can be useful, if it works
• cash–whether it’s silver coins or twenty dollar bills, money talks…sometimes.  Try a mixture of denominations.
• maps of local area–whether they are highway or topo maps, they can be useful to find…or avoid…something, whether you are on foot or in a vehicle
• extra tarps–nylon tarps are quieter, lighter, and more compact, but they are also more expensive.  A spare tarp can be worth more than gold if it is needed, as well as being an item useful for trading for something else you need.
• sleeping bags–in cold weather, some people prefer these
• sleeping pads–some are compact and light, easier to transport than multiple layers for a pallet bed roll.
• tent–some people like walls that surround them.  They come in a variety of sizes, prices, configurations, and weights, as well as colors.  Choose something that blends in rather than something in neon colors.
• two way radios–very useful especially in larger groups, it allows for communication for up to 3-8 miles, depending on the models chosen.  Make sure you have spare batteries or a charging method.
• Rechargeable batteries with solar charger–this can really help with battery usage for a longer bout of emergency state
• camera–record images for later

Use your head, and try using your gear for a practice weekend.  Figure out what works…and what doesn’t.  Seriously, just go camping in the woods somewhere with it and test it.  If you can’t survive overnight with it, it obviously needs to be changed!

Remember, don’t make it too heavy.  You may need to walk for hours, day after day, carrying this.  If it’s too heavy to carry, trim it down.  Choose lighter items, share weight with your companions, eliminate non-essentials.  Practice wearing it, even just around the house.  Try walking in the park with it a few times.  Be honest with yourself, and assess whether or not it is actually reasonable for the wearer, whether it is yourself or someone else.

Next time, it’s going to be a child’s bug out pack!

We’ve dropped the Meet Up group.  It seems that if its too easy to “join”, then people regard joining about as important as clicking “Like” on Facebook.  They put an equal amount of effort into their activities with the group too.  Perhaps that’s why so many groups on Meet Up now charge a fee for joining or participating–to prevent the hours that organizers put into activities only to sit and stare at each other with excessive amounts of supplies and no one to participate.

We’re going to essentially focus our online efforts in simply providing information, and our offline efforts will focus on providing opportunities for hands-on participation, in hopes that we achieve a better balance of effort versus participation than we observed during our efforts with Meet Up.  We may include upcoming events in our blog posts and on our website, but participating is going to require being in the area of the activity and making your reservation via the telephone or mail.

So what kinds of things do we intend to do via our offline activities?

Obviously, when we’re planning a camp out, it’s an offline activity.  But there are a lot of other things that go hand in hand, not only with Get Ready GO but also with our primary focus, the Exogeny Center.  That can include anything from traditional skills to socializing, and it’s all important as part of a sharing concept that makes the world of difference when exposing newbies to an activity.

Organizing is important, but on a small scale, it doesn’t have to have a lot of formal trappings.  Someone has to choose an activity, a location, a time/date, and get the word out.  Sometimes there is the need to bring in an “expert” to help with the activity too.  That means that someone has to be the leader, the person in charge.  That doesn’t mean that they become a little dictator and everyone marches on their orders, or soon no one will want to help or participate!  With the leader changing with the activity, that means a number of people have an opportunity to learn leadership skills, an important skill set no matter what endeavor one is undertaking.  By helping the organizer, people can learn these skills without the stress and weight of the entire event on their shoulders too.  All good leaders know the importance of delegation and the ability to flex with different personalities, issues, skills, and desires too.

We hope to soon start planning activities once again, with a wide variety of options, but we’re going to focus on quality versus quantity.  Four good activities are far better than twelve not-very-interesting ones, and having people participate is the ultimate goal.  Those of us who are outdoors fans really have a hard time understanding why anyone wouldn’t find the woods and streams far more interesting and entertaining than an afternoon at the mall!  At the same time, for those who haven’t spent time participating in the past, what seems simple to experienced users becomes incredibly intimidating and mysterious to the neophyte.  Sharing is how we can let others learn about the things we are passionate about, increasing interest and support for natural spaces outdoors rather than the latest and greatest in parking lots!  If we are exclusionary in the activities, fewer and fewer people will see their merit and support preserving the parks and national forests we treasure so much.

So, if you haven’t taken a novice camping this year, what are you waiting for?

The same goes for fishing and hunting and everything else.  Have you shared your skills and passions with anyone?

Share a skill with someone, introduce them to the values that you treasure, and who knows…you may make a lifelong friend, have another hunting buddy, or discover something new yourself.  Don’t wait–tomorrows are never promised either.

I think I might have come up with one though.

With the concept of pushing something in front ruled out, that leaves the idea of pulling something behind  as a potential option.  At the same time, since the use of a walking stick greatly aids in maintaining one’s stability on the trail, tying up the lone “good arm” with a wagon handle doesn’t sound too brilliant either.

My idea is a quick release buckle on a wide hip belt, with the cart’s tow line attached at the center of the back.  Traditional child’s wagons are a good width, but their wheels and tongue aren’t adequate for the job they would be assigned to do.  Most garden carts are too wide, heavy, and sluggish to spend a day being tugged along narrow hiking trails, and would present a huge problem when faced with obstacles that require assistance to cross, such as rivers, creeks, and gullies.

I’m envisioning something using a 16″ bicycle wheel because they are easily obtained, match the wheels on our bicycle trailer, have good clearance for minor obstacles, and are large enough to not beat the wagon itself as it navigates the trailer.  It would have to have a  handle that would allow it to be used to push the trailer, as well as a tongue handle to allow it to be pulled easily.  By making it have a large enough capacity to carry two backpacks, two sleeping bags, and a tent, it could be used by a couple, allowing them to alternate pulling the cart through the day.  That means it needs to be capable of a 75 pound payload.

While two wheels can be used on a dolly, that doesn’t have the weight capacity and stability we’re seeking, so we would need at least three wheels.  In addition, many parts of the country, including where we live, has a lot of water, and if the cart is capable of floating while fully loaded, it would make it a lot easier to cross bodies of water, otherwise, if it is more than 12″ deep, carrying  the cart across would be necessary.

Now it’s sounding like a little boat on wheels, which is a bit whacky, I suppose.

So, we want it about 18″ wide, and no more than 36″ long, with a handle that extends up on both the front and the back.  the front wheel is going to have to pivot somehow in order to make it easy to turn, whether it has a front pair of wheels or a single wheel.  The front handle should be able to be folded back, like the tongue on a child’s wagon.

Okay, great idea…if you own a machine shop, I suppose.  I don’t, and I’m also not able to do extensive work of this nature.  So what kind of a solution would I find by searching online?

I knew I’d have to give up some things, but the width was really important.  Any narrower than 18″, and it wouldn’t work too well for holding a backpack.  If it was too wide, it wouldn’t be able to be used on a typical hiking trail. Too long, and it’s apt to high center as we cross obstacles, as well as having a poor turning radius.

Amazon.com, that amazing super-internet-store, but one also well known to be reasonable secure to shop with, had a number of wagons.  At first, I was mostly searching in regards to a wooden wagon, but those seemed to be mostly for the typical tote-the-kid-around-the-block types.  While there isn’t anything wrong with that, that’s not exactly what I had in mind either.

I found something that looks like it would work with minimal modifications.  It’s called the “Tricam FR110-2 Farm & Ranch 400-Pound Capacity Steel Utility Cart, Green“.

Triton green steel utility cart from Amazon.

It won’t float.  It doesn’t have 16″ bicycle wheels, although they are air filled, which could be a problem if a puncture occurs.  They are fat, which means more resistance than a bicycle wheel would have, but they are 10″, which is a decent size.    It has a tongue, and the reviews indicate that it does have a tight turning radius.

A strap could be attached to the tongue that then fastened to a wide hip belt with a quick release buckle.  It has plenty of cargo capacity, as I seriously doubt that we’d ever load 400 lbs onto a cart to take along on a hike.  It could do double duty by helping haul things around the yard too.  The deck is two inches longer than what my target size was, since it is 34″ long.  It costs $88.31, with a free shipping option, via Amazon.  That’s not a bad price, especially with good reviews from other purchasers.

While we could probably come up with something to bolt onto the cart to allow someone to push from the back, I’m not sure it would do much good after thinking about it some more.  With the pivoting front wheels, steering would still be a potential problem.  That doesn’t mean we wouldn’t use a handle on the back.  That rear handle would allow a second person to slow the cart’s descent down a slope, as well as provide something to grab to help get it over obstacles or even to help carry it across them.  In fact, it might be a good idea to bolt handles to the sides, just for that purpose.

That leaves the belt and the straps.  For the hip belt, nylon seatbelt webbing is available from Seattle Fabrics for $1.50 per yard.  3/4″ black webbing, also from Seattle Fabrics, is only $.65 per yard and would be perfectly adequate to use from the belt to the tongue, freeing up the person playing draft horse’s hands.  A side release buckle runs $1.85 from Seattle Fabrics.  3/4″ buckles, of which we’d need 2, (one for the belt and one for the handle end) runs  $.85 per buckle.

Obviously, the belt and strap will be the least expensive part of the project.

On considering the belt, while seatbelt weave nylon straps are going to distribute the resistance of the cart over it’s entire width, it’s still depending on the person’s clothing providing adequate padding to prevent chafing, bruising, etc.  It may require pads to be attached, and that part…I’ve not worked out entirely yet.

Even so, it looks like I could assemble a prototype from the cart and straps for about $100-120, including shipping and some relatively simple modifications.  That’s not bad, actually, especially when compared to taking a design to a shop and asking for custom fabrication.

The table I bought had a wood slat top that fit over nipples sticking out of the top of the scissoring leg assembly, similar to the very familiar camping chairs sold everywhere today.  Disassembled, the rolled up top fastened with velcro and packed, along with the legs, in a nylon carry sack.  Probably weighing about 20-25 lbs, it wasn’t something  you’d take along on a backpacking trip, but it was ideal for my solitary Jeep-side camps in the canyons and mountains of Arizona.  It also made the trip with me to New Orleans when I moved there, serving as a temporary computer desk and as a dining table until furniture was purchased.  Over a decade later of somewhat hard use, it has died after the failure of the leg assembly.  The top wasn’t in particularly good condition either, sporting numerous grease and scorch marks.  It was only then that I began to shop for a replacement  and was somewhat dismayed to discover that it seems to no longer be manufactured and sold, instead similar tables have flimsy aluminum or vinyl clad tops.  While these may be lighter, the aluminum bends and the vinyl does more than merely scorch–it can burn and melt at much lower temperatures than the wood table had.  In addition, the prices had also gone up substantially, leaving me somewhat disappointed in the more modern offerings of compact camping tables.

That left me wondering…could it be possible to recreate a table like this from a home shop with minimal tools?

Thank goodness for a couple of resources: YouTube and Instructables.

There is the “picnic” style table made from a single sheet of plywood, complete with benches, which looked like a good idea for a couple such as my husband and myself, although we do prefer the flexibility of having separate chairs…the benches might be a great idea simply for a place to set our supplies and cooler, with our chairs at either end of the table.   It disassembles into flat pieces for storage and transport, and assembles just as easily.  It appears to use a saw and a router to achieve the basic construction, although a sander might be a good idea too.  The video is here, and the plans are here.

For a more compact table for transporting and storing, there is a shorter version of the roll up table.  From the design, I don’t think it would be wise to try to create one at normal “table” height without some major modifications to the design.  The plans call for the table to be roughly 12″ high, which is suitable for alongside a chair, and is better than nothing when it comes to a work surface.  It’s also fairly simple to construct, as well as assemble/disassemble.  Here are the instructions for it.  If I was to make one for myself, I’d be very interested in whether or not it would work at about 18″ high, which would make it a lot easier to work with when seated at a chair beside it.  (Chair seats seem to be 18-22″ off of the ground usually.)

Things like I had never thought about screen printed ADULT tents…like a wedge  tent that was screen printed to look like a slice of watermelon…or have a silhouette of a couple kissing.  (Here it is.  There are other designs too.) While the page shows the photos, it doesn’t list retailers or the manufacturer.

There is also a suspended tent, rather like an overgrown triple hammock with a center area for…socializing?  Climbing out of that tent half asleep come morning could mean that first step was a real doozy though!  (Take a look here.)  For a bit, I thought that it might be cool to use in the bayous and swamps along the Gulf Coast…until I remembered that some of the alligator baits are hung over six feet above the water.  I have to admit…alligators of substantial size really intimidate me.  Their ability to lurk, unseen, under the water for hours is also kind of creepy.  I think I’ll stick to dry land camping on the ground…out of gator space!

If camping doesn’t give you enough thrills and chills…there is also what is known as “extreme camping.”  While it’s not my cup of tea, neither is rock climbing.  I like my trails to be more horizontal, I guess.  For the adrenaline junkie though, the idea of sleeping suspended on the side of a cliff can be exhilarating, as well as welcome rest after hours of tense climbing.  I can’t help but wonder how these set ups are carried and put together while dangling precariously on the face of a cliff.  (Take a look at some options here.)

At the opposite end of the spectrum is the armchair adventurer, although today, many real world adventurers use technology to prepare for their experiences.  One such offering is a video tour of several trails, with a full panoramic view much like Google Maps offers for many locations.  (Take a look at the article here.)  Few of us are ever going to visit every single one of America’s National Parks, as much as we may want to, because of issues like jobs, time, money, and the price of gasoline.  That doesn’t mean we don’t appreciate them from a distance though, and being able to experience some of that beauty without having to take two week off of work to drive half of that time, only to arrive for a hurried hike to see the “hot spots” of the park before a rush to return home again.

That price of gasoline is going to be a contributing influence in everyone’s life, whether or not they are trying to reduce their use of fossil fuels in general.  Many of us have added bicycles, combined trips, or even started using smaller transportation such as scooters or motorcycles for many trips.  Few of us can afford the gas guzzling work horses on the highway that are capable of pulling massive campers or one of the “land yacht” motorhomes that have every amenity under the sun included.  At the same time, we have an aging population, and many of us are facing increasingly more restrictive physical limitations that mean that our days of backpacking and remote campsites in micro-sized tents with ultra light beds are in our pasts.  The desire to continue camping with that connection with nature may still be with us though, and finding a solution requires some creative thinking at times.  That’s what led me to the next bit.

The teardrop camper seems like the ideal solution for not-as-young-as-we-once-were but still not ready for the rocking chair segment of our population.  With their small size and light weight, these campers are not the ostentatious-and-obnoxious-blaring-television type of “Recreational Vehicle” that many of us have spent a lifetime scorning.  Almost anyone, from a bicyclist to a motorcyclist to the most compact of cars or the most suburban of mini-vans can manage one of appropriate size too.  (Okay, so the bicyclist and motorcyclists better not be claustrophobic or of substantial size…but that’s the way it goes!)  These campers can be ultra simple, with not much more than an enclosed platform for  a foam mattress to much more complex container with solar power and climate control.  Traditionally, they were made of aluminum skinned wood, often with wood trim left visible, and were practically works of art on their own.  Today, a few commercial models are available, and more are likely to start becoming available with their booming popularity.  (Just watch at any campground when a teardrop pulls in of any kind–people have to inquire about it!)

I really am enthusiastic about teardrops, and it is actually on our list of “to-do when we can afford to do” things.  We may purchase one and we may opt for the slower but more customizable option of building our own.  That hasn’t been decided–we’re in the early stages of researching for the entire project.  Supposedly, a home built teardrop averages in the $1500-3000 price range, depending on features and the cost of critical parts.  Purchased ones seem to run $10,000-$25,000 depending on features and style.  Some custom models from smaller builders are consistently in the $5000-8000 range that seem to be very comparable to the more expensive bigger companies models too.

For us, whether we invest time and money or just money, it’s a huge investment.  We don’t want it to turn out to be a mistake.  I have some legitimate concerns, such as the fact that I am claustrophobic and I know that if I feel too confined inside of the camper, I’ll be miserable and I’ll hate it.  It also has to have air conditioning, as a side effect of some of my health problems is my intolerance of heat, especially for sleeping.  Thinking about this camper is partially to allow me to continue summer camping, with the option of retreating inside when the heat begins to become a problem, as well as to be able to sleep at night.  (The South never cools down much at night due to the high humidity.)  Therefore, air conditioning is a must-have, and it has to be a place I can retreat in comfort to read or use the laptop during the day too.

That’s a tall order for a space that original models had measured off with 48″x72″ and a head height of 48″ for the “indoors” space.  Add three dogs and two adults, and watch claustrophobia reign supreme!

Thankfully, with today’s materials and engineering, the spaces have managed to get a bit larger while still remaining lightweight and easy to tow.  With an average mid-sized vehicle, even the largest of the teardrops are still do-able.

With the climate in our home region in mind, I can’t help but worry about rot in terms of our teardrop.  Wood and moisture are not a good combination, and no one can say the coastal region is dry.  (As I look out upon the lake that was a yard yesterday before the latest rain storm, it’s brought home once again too.)  Therefore, Egg Camper’s “Teardropp” is appealing with its rot proof and low maintenance molded fiberglass body.  It has a different looking design for the rear hatch as well, making it look as though we could easily stow our bicycles inside the camper for traveling, removing them when we arrived at our destination for use.  The bed is also raised, which means the issue of climbing inside the camper during a downpour doesn’t mean crawling into bed with your soggy clothes and shoes along with you.  (Another huge plus in this area!)

I haven’t been able to take a look at one in person, it seems that the Gulf Coast doesn’t have an overabundance of RV dealers who carry teardrops at this point.  Still, it is on my list of “highly interesting ideas”.

That’s not the end of my search though.  We have friends who are devout motocross fans, and love taking their dirt bikes and atv on trips, which seems sometimes to be their sole motivation to camping.  While we’re not fans, we have considered a scooter as alternate transportation, but the difficulty of taking it along while using a teardrop camper was somewhat of a dilemma.  The scooter would allow us to tour an area cheaply, while the camper and regular vehicle were comfortable for camping and distance travel.  One company has solved that issue with a sort of hybrid camper that comes in with a “fully equipped” weight of 1250 lbs.  That’s a bit heavier, especially with the added weight of a scooter inside of it, than the average teardrop, but it also has an interior kitchen and standing room, in addition to the convertable/folding bed.  With that said, Micro-Lite’s Car-Go Xtreme is still quite attractive.  Unfortunately, it’s another company without dealers in this region or a MSRP on the website, so I have no idea which ball park this trailer is priced in.

The idea of building our own camp trailer isn’t new.  Originally, I had said I wanted a trailer with a kitchen for camping, as well as cargo/storage space for our camping gear, and a space we can sleep in during exceptionally adverse weather.  With a couple of more years down the road, and some new health problems, my criteria has shifted.  Now, I want indoor, climate controllable sleeping space, with the ability to use it as seating space during the heat of the day, if necessary, as well as a retreat during those days when it’s just plain cold, wet, and miserable outdoors.  (We’ve all had trips with days like that!)  While I am not demanding luxury, complete with indoor toilet and shower, I don’t want us to be on an extended trip and feeling like a night or two in a motel is essential either.  Today, most campgrounds offer hot showers and indoor flush toilets, and if we’re in the boonies, we haven’t forgotten how to cope!

There are also more fanciful designs that could be considered, ranging from the Gypsy Vardo to a sheepherder wagon complete with wood stove heat.  (Not that creating heat is usually much of a concern in the South!)  In our case, I am really more concerned about a compact space that is comfortable and convenient, as well as easy-t0-tow so that our gas mileage doesn’t drop to unreasonable levels.  We are also naturally as well as essentially frugal–we really don’t like spending more than we need to or buying unnecessary items.  At the same time, we’re not fond of wasting our money on “junk” or making poor purchase decisions, as both of these are a waste in our opinions.  Hence I’ll be researching this project, for both purchase and building it ourselves, for quite some time before we make a firm decision.  I will admit though…we are leaning towards the idea of building it ourselves, if we live in a place that is conducive to doing so at the time we are ready to do so.  In order to build one yourself, a protected location (minimal is a carport, garage is better) is absolutely essential to protect from weather during  critical stages.  It rains far too much here to dream of trying to do it with nothing more than a tarp covering.  At the same time, building a garage or renting a garage in order to have that protected space would add enough cost to the project that it may be decided that we would be better off to buy one.

But sometimes…the romantic image of the Gypsy Vardo or the rustic image of that sheepherder wagon are very appealing!  I will try very hard though, to remain focused on the “easy to tow” portion of our concept.  I do wish that I was proficient at using CAD software…it would be so much easier!

So why consider a teardrop camper?

For me, there were the issues of health problems leading to a serious issue with summertime camping.  I cannot tolerate the heat, especially when trying to sleep.  Living in the South, that means camping was out from about May until October.  For my partner, arthritis meant that cold wasn’t making it fun anymore either, especially sleeping on the cold ground, no matter how much insulation we had under us.

We’re also frugal, as well as “fiscally challenged.”  That means that we do not like to spend more than we need to, as well as cannot afford to spend much on anything.  Buying a fancy camper or RV is fine and dandy, until you realize that you can’t afford to take it on the road.  With gas prices predicted to hit new all time highs again this summer, no one wants a gas guzzling anything on the highway.

In addition, our mini-van can’t pull a “normal” sized camper efficiently.  We don’t want to get a vehicle with a bigger motor–it would also use more gasoline, and like most people, our camping is a small portion of our actual driving.  It just doesn’t make financial sense to invest more money to spend more money!

For years, as the duly elected camp cook, I had been saying that I needed a “kitchen trailer” that could be packed with the things I needed, and just stay packed, instead of loading totes and equipment into the van for each trip, then toting it into camp, only to pack it up and tote it home again.  As all camp cooks know, there are lots of volunteers when its meal time, but they all seem to disappear when it is time to do the dishes OR pack up the kitchen!

Having spent many nights in tents that had a pinhole right over MY side of the bed…or a leak in the floor…or water tracked in from the downpour outside…I knew that having a place to sleep that was out of the weather was also nice.  It is also fantastic when you pull into your campsite, whether in a primitive area or a campground, and don’t have an hour of set up to accomplish before you can relax.  It is also nice that when it’s time to go home, you don’t have to start breaking down and packing up three hours before departure, essentially sucking away that last half-day of your trip.

That’s why the teardrop camper sounds like a great idea to me.  Here’s why:

• Rear access kitchen is great for a couple or when cooking for a group with integrated storage and cooking surface.
• Interior has a sleeping surface that is indoors and can be climate controlled with air conditioner and furnace.
• Interior can also hold additional camping gear such as tent, hammocks, chairs, screen room, canopy, etc. for travel.
• Light weight, it can be towed by almost any vehicle, adding little to the cost of traveling by increased gas consumption.
• On extended trips, it’s actually possible to get a comfortable night’s sleep in your teardrop in a rest area, etc. rather than actually stopping at a campground to just sleep.

So the next question is…do you want to do it yourself or buy a professionally manufactured model?

That’s not as easy to answer for many people.  Building one yourself does require some skills that many of us may not have, as well as tools and work space to do it in.  It requires time too.  There are lots of plans out there to do it yourself, and there are some beautiful home made ones out there.  With that said, for domestic peace, many people may want to purchase one already built.

That’s where I decided I’d look first.  I really had no idea what was on the market or how much they cost.  For us, a big part of the whether-or-not-to-do-it-ourselves depends on prices.  We really don’t have the time, tools, or workspace to devote to building one, and I can see it disrupting our domestic tranquility immensely on the road to completion.  (Yeah, remember those honey-do lists?  Even inquiring on their status an earn a wife the label of “nag”.)

• Little Guy Trailers has a number of models.  Unfortunately, their website doesn’t include the MSRP, so I tried to find a dealer within reasonable driving distance.  There is one in Alabama, but the website kept erroring, leaving me frustrated on that front.  From what I could tell from my brief look at the dealer’s sparse website, it seems that their trailers are in the $8-10K range.
• Signa Tour Campers is another manufacturer.  Their models seem pretty sparse, and while they had MSRP for their standard models, they didn’t offer prices on options like air conditioning, which is very important in our case.  Their base models range from $3-6K.  Their models are rather “bare bones” and don’t offer anything in terms of a galley.  They are also the least expensive of the models I’ve found.
• Cozy Cruiser was next, and their model was pretty sharp looking by anyone’s standards.  It also runs about $13K and is built in Oregon, requiring buyers to arrange for pick up or delivery.  That’s a long ways from Mississippi to transport even a teardrop camper.  Even so, it did have a nice looking galley and appeared to have some very classic styling.
• Camp Inn had some trailers that really did appeal to me, and being manufactured in Florida was also nice.  I liked their website too, which was well designed and easy to navigate. Their trailers, available in several configurations, run about $8-19K, depending on which model with which accessories.  I can really see me in one of their 560 Ultra models.
• Big Woody Campers is a much smaller operation.  From the website, I wasn’t absolutely sure they are still building campers at all, as they still had references to placing orders to be ready for the 2011 camping season.  They also didn’t offer a model with air conditioning built in, which was high on my list of “must have” features.  They do, however, offer plans as well as a “U Finish” model.  The “U Finish” model has the exterior complete, and the buyer then finishes the interior and galley themselves.  That’s kind of a neat option if you are skilled but want to get a jump start, as the frame and skinning of the trailer seems to be the hardest and most time consuming part of construction.
• Texas Teardrops is another small company with an attractive model at five feet wide.  With a base price just under $6K, they do offer an air conditioning option, as well as numerous other options, such as the “marriage saving device” known as the second door.  I can see where the second door would be a very important feature as well.
• I’m not sure Utilitoy is still making trailers.  Their website is pretty bare bones, just like the trailer, although the photographs show a simple convertible utility/camping trailer that has two beds (1 queen, 1 full) television, and an air conditioner.  No galley though, and you have to email them for a quote on prices.
• Tiny Trailers also has no prices on their website.  These look like the traditional teardrops, and little is said about options or customizing one with an air conditioner.  This company is also based in Washington.
• TC Teardrops is based in Wisconsin and is another small builder.  Their trailers run from $3450-5000, plus options, but they don’t list air conditioning on their website.  The trailers seem to be pretty traditional in design, although the galleys don’t appear to be as “pretty” as  some.  Their largest model comes at about 950 lbs empty, so they aren’t featherweights in this category.
• JD Trailers offers a very bare bones model.  It’s got the right shape and exterior, but the curved rear does not form the hatch, and there is no galley.  At $3995, it’s not the cheapest on the market, but it is one of the lowest priced models.  Their website also offers a neat pop up motorcycle camper.
• Treehouse Trailers make a trailer that puts a whole new meaning on “woody.”  They have gorgeous exteriors, although the interiors and galleys are a mystery.  Based in Oregon, their trailers run $3-9K and look like very custom creations.
• Compact Construction seems to make two products: Murphy beds and tear drop trailers.  Other than both using wood, I’m not sure what they have in common though!  In either case, the trailers look sharp in the photos, and are pretty traditional.  Once again, no mention of air conditioning in them.
• Teardrop Trailer Parts has some trailers for sale, both finished and as kits.  These finished trailers seem to run from $5-9K each.  They also have various components to price if you are considering building your own.
• Tears O’ Joy seems to be one guy doing custom work, not that there is anything wrong with that.  It just means that there will be a much more individualized process and pricing schedule to go with it.  As of this point, I’m not sure he’s still building trailers or how long it takes to get a trailer from him.  He’s got a great site though, so it is worth taking a look at.
• Eggcamper Teardrop is a composite molded teardrop camper made in Michigan.  I like it because the bed is raised from the floor, allowing the campers to get in out of the weather and remove shoes/raincoat without anybody or the bed getting wet and muddy.  It looks like the rear galley may be open to the interior sleeping space…which sounds fine until you realize that here in the South, we not only have the heat and humidity, but an ample supply of biting insects to go with it.  No mention is made of my heart’s desire (air conditioning) either.  It’s supposed to be just under $10K.
• Teardrop72 is based in Utah and does entirely custom work with their base model starts at $3795, plus options.  While they don’t list air conditioning on their list, they do state that about anything can be added, so I’m sure it’s possible–just the price would be a mystery.  They are classic style, with few frills in the galley area, but the price tag is among the lowest in the list too.  It also doesn’t come with some of the things some models do, such as mattress, stove, etc.
• Quicksilvers has trailers designed to carry dogs…or their larger teardrops for humans.  Their high end model lists for $8500.  The photos on the website are mostly of exteriors, leaving the interiors somewhat mysterious.
• Silver Tears does mostly custom work from what their website indicates, and the prices are apparently just as customized.  Based in Virginia, the photos indicate that they produce very custom trailers with some very nice touches.
• Mega Minis is based in Indiana, and does custom teardrops just over $7K for the base models.  Of course, adding a couple of packages of their options, such as their convenience package and their comfort package, and it will run about $10K.  Their shape is a bit boxier, and the appearance inside seems more RV-like than custom hobbyist appearing.
• R-Pod by Forest River is really pushing the whole “teardrop” to the absolute limit.  It’s got a lot, but it is also about twice as heavy as the average traditional teardrop.  Even so, it does stay under the 3000# limit, I’m just afraid of the damage it would wreak on gas mileage.  Still, for a family with kids, this might be a better compromise.

I’m sure that’s not everybody.  I know I did not include any that were pop up or used fabric side/roofs.  There are a lot of ideas there too.  It also tells me that they don’t have to be expensive, although how much of their cost is passed on if you are buying a used teardrop camper.  Next, I suppose I’ll have to check out those who offer plans and designs.

It is designed to allow women to urinate standing up.  No more embarrassing, inconvenient, and messy exercises in squatting in the bushes or dangling your butt over the side of the fishing boat would be necessary.  It’s supposed to be far more discrete, as well as sanitary.  It also will allow women to reduce their usage of dubious public toilets.

I’ll admit, dangling my butt over the edge of the boat always is accompanied by some horrific mental scenarios.  In one, I fall over board, and since I can no longer swim at all due to a disability, I proceed to drown, because I’m also incapable of hauling myself back into the boat, even with my husband’s help.  Alternate endings to that involve alligators or sharks (depending on where we are) deciding that rump roast is on their menu.  I hate it.  I avoid drinking and risk dehydration to reduce the number of butt-hangings that are required in a day.  In addition, there was also the continual worry about an approaching boat or unobserved viewer from shore.

Then, a couple of young ladies I know acquired them and began raving about these  FUDs.  For the first time, a solution appeared.  One of these ladies suggested practicing in the shower to get the knack down, while the other said she never bothered practicing, she just used it when it became necessary while on a fishing trip.  Both swear by them for outdoor activities, and while showing the device to a woman who was unfamiliar with it, there were concerns from the uninitiated woman about its lack of sanitation, that it was dirty.

Apparently, this lady had never had the misfortune to have a job that included cleaning a public restroom.  My own urine’s residue inside of that device (the part that I don’t even touch) is the least of my worries in a public restroom.  How many times have you walked into a public restroom and thought there is no way I am going to use THAT?  I know I have refused to use a restroom only to have my husband stop a few miles out of town on a secluded side road so I could heed nature’s call.  At least with a FUD,  I could avoid SITTING on that nasty toilet!

It doesn’t matter what kind of activity you are involved in, biking, hiking, camping, fishing, hunting, boating, swimming, whatever…this compact device doesn’t weigh a lot, doesn’t take up much room, will fit in a standard jean’s pocket, and will allow you the grace of quickly managing one of nature’s calls without the butt baring and squatting while trying to keep shoes and pants out of the way too.  Women have enough assaults on their dignity without enduring any more squatting incidents if possible!

There are  a number of devices on the market, but the ones used by my friends, as well as the one I intend to order in the near future is called “Go Girl.”  Their website is found here.  It has a much better description of exactly how to use it and how it works.  Having been on trips when it is being used, I know that the women love it, are devoted to their “Go Girl”, and are thrilled to have added such a device to their repertoire of outdoors tools.

It made me envious enough to plan on purchasing one for myself.