Glamping versus camping

A new term came to my attention this morning when I got up hours before the sun, courtesy of my insistent insomnia.  The internet is an amazing thing sometimes, and so are forums.  This amazing concept is typically called “glamping” and may appeal to those who have a significant other who just isn’t into roots and rocks for sleep texture, and wonder where to plug in their hair dryer in the morning.

Okay, I’ll admit…I don’t always want to “rough it” when I head out on a camping trip.  I don’t LIKE sleeping snuggled between a rock and a sharp place, and I’ve done my time doing it.  Sometimes, we’re out and on the road, traveling for whatever reason…and we want to have a bit more convenience and comfort than that backpacker’s ultra light minimalist tent with a mummy sleeping bag and freeze dried dinner in a bag.

So…I suppose I could be accused of “glamping” on occasion.  I have done things like take electric heaters, electric lamps, tables, chairs, laptops,  etc. along.  We have a giant sized (for two people anyhow) Coleman Red Canyon tent that while it’s incredibly drafty in winter, it also offers an amazing amount of space to stretch out and set up for comfort.  So what IS the difference between glamping and car camping really?

Glamping is more about luxury and glamour than car camping traditionally is.  It’s more likely to include luxuries such as air conditioning, attractive and spacious tents, floor coverings, and furniture than regular car campers will include.  Glamping doesn’t include RVs per se…but we all know that many RVs are really all about glamour!  True glamping is apparently done in a luxurious and spacious tent, however, and can easily include plenty of “Arabian Nights” kind of romantic accessories.

And here I was…trying to down size my camping gear when I had the perfect excuse to go glamping and bring even more!

So what is really the entire point of glamping rather than merely going camping?  Glamping is camping when you really aren’t going to be roughing it and don’t want to.  Glamping would work for a base camp on a dream vacation, especially in situations when “roughing it” might not be the best choice, like perhaps for a honeymoon whether its your first or second.  It’s how a couple can reach a compromise and enjoy a vacation together too–not everyone is willing to go rough it in the wilderness.

In addition, glamping may be the least expensive way to ease that spouse into the camping world because often, many of your home furnishings (or second hand ones purchased to take along) can make the trip, assuming you have the cargo space to manage them.

Start with the largest tent you can manage, both in terms of price and ability to set it up.  This is your mansion, so make sure you have done things like seal seams and waterproof the fly.  If its a new tent purchased for the trip, read reviews.  You want it to be sturdy, easy to get in and out of, and definitely waterproof.  Straight sided tent walls mean more usable floor space too.  Use one or more tarps underneath the tent to protect the floor and prevent migration of moisture through the tent floor (as well as to keep it clean.)  I find that using multiple smaller tarps is usually less expensive and easier to manage than a giant sized tarp.  Cheap tarps work just fine here, and no one sees them after you are finished setting up the tent.  Fold any excess under the edge of the tent–you do not want any of it protruding out, channeling rain or dew under  your tent.  Don’t forget to use ALL of the guy out points on the tent and rain fly to increase the tent’s stability.

The ultimate glamping tent is supposedly a canvas tent, of much the same type as is used in renaissance fairs and other re-enactments.  These heavier tents are more difficult to set up, weigh more, are more bulky in storage, and require more maintenance than the less expensive and more common camping type of synthetic fabric tents.  However, many of these tents will allow the addition of features such as wood burning stoves, ready made boots for air conditioners, etc. as well as having heavier fabric less likely to readily exchange heat.  Teepees, yurts, etc. are also options that can be considered for glamping housing options.

Your second accessory will be a screened in canopy to eliminate insects from the equation while allowing everyone to be “outdoors.”  Make sure the roof is also waterproof, just in case of rain during your glamping excursion.  Make sure that the entrance/exit is easy to use, as this is frequently the failure point of screened in gazebos.  Also stake the gazebo down as much as the design allows–this makes it more stable in the event of a gust of wind.

Floor coverings are next.  You want to create an air of luxury, but you don’t want to have too much bulk, weight, or something that turns into a giant sponge in the event of rain.  Some suggested coverings are things like the outdoor mats that allow easy passage of moisture through them (check for outdoor mats like are used on RV patio areas) or cotton drop cloths (like painters use.)  Inside your screened in gazebo, if no floor is included, a tarp as a moisture barrier might be an excellent starting point, followed with “astro turf” cut to fit the interior space.  This material can be purchased at most Home Depots and Lowe’s fairly inexpensively.  Make sure to fold the tarp under layer up along the edges of the gazebo walls to prevent moisture from entering in the event of rain.

Now comes the furniture.  The truly creative ones with bigger budgets can explore the world of “campaign furniture” from the 18th and 19th century and the pinnacle of the British Empire.  You’ll see some ingenious portability there!  Duplicating the designs may be a much more affordable route than purchasing the original antiques, and some reproductions may be commercially available.  This stuff is truly “fine furniture” that you wouldn’t be adverse to using in your own home, and will feature decorative trims, techniques, etc. as well as multiple purpose natures combined with extreme portability.

You are not stuck exploring just “camping furniture” in this effort either.  Any furniture that folds up or breaks down into parts that can be assembled with few or no tools is a potential glamping piece of furniture.  Its a good idea to choose pieces that would dry quickly or be impervious to water exposure.  You will want at least a table with seating, a raised bed, and chairs.  Extras such as a night stand, foot stools, clothing storage, portable toilet, and desk may also be necessary or desired.

For the bed, the most practical solution would be an air mattress on a frame, raising it above the floor.  Typically these are only available in twin or queen size, but the choices of those two sizes should work for most people and still allow them to use bedding from home.  That can save a bit of change–no sleeping bags or pads required.  (Cabella’s sells the frame for air mattresses, and Amazon has one as well.)  Don’t forget things like the mattress pad, sheets, comforters, pillows, etc.

Tables come in a variety of sizes, heights, portability, weight, and types.  I happen to love the folding frame topped with a wooden top that rolls, but it has been unavailable for a number of years.  A new version uses aluminum slats.  There are also plastic and other metal tables that fold, as well as the “tv tray” made of wood or metal that can become small tables.  Use table clothes, vinyl or fabric, to cover whatever tables you choose to use–it’s part of the whole look, and should coordinate with your other fabrics.

Portable chairs come in a variety of colors, sizes, types, and prices.  Choose chairs that not only coordinate, but are comfortable.   Chaise lounges can be the typical lawn chair type and topped with a throw too.  There are also inflatable sofas, although I have no idea how comfortable or practical they would be, even in a glamping scenario.  You will want seating in the gazebo and inside the tent.  Another item that may be worth your time and attention will be the portable closet.  There are a lot of them on the market–look for one that assembles & disassembles easily, as well as offers adequate storage space for your use during your glamping excursions.  Since most of these are not designed for glamping, you may need to invest in a storage container or bag to keep it all together without losing pieces between excursions.

Finally, don’t forget your power supplies.  You will need at least two heavy duty outdoor type extension cords, and two “power strips” to attach to them.  One goes to the gazebo, and the other goes to the tent, which means that your power supply is somewhat limited.  In addition, most campgrounds are only going to be rated for about 30 amps per campsite, but this should not be a problem even while glamping.

For your tent, minimum appliances will include a lamp, and then a either a fan (summer) or an electric heater (winter.)  Other items such as a second lamp, alarm clock, electric blanket, etc. can be added as needed.  Portable air conditioners, which vent through a hose, can also be used in hot climates for summer outings.  Standard window units, usually far less expensive than the “portable” units, require extensive modifications to use in a tent, such as creating the opening and a way of securing it around the unit, as well as a rack system for supporting the unit in the tent wall.

Most glampers are going to locate the kitchen in the gazebo or in another tent rather than the primary one, allowing the dedication of the space to cooking and dining rather than making it a dual purpose space.  Even so, the luxury doesn’t stop before you hit the kitchen.  So what are some requirements?

Lighting–you’ll need lighting besides the romantic lighting for dinner.

Stove–forget backpacking stoves here.  You want two burners, preferably propane fueled, and possibly an oven.  There is an actual stove that includes these in a single unit, but it isn’t cheap.  Amazon lists the Camp Chef stove at $203.95 but offers free shipping.  Beware…the oven IS small!  Camp Chef also makes a two burner stove on legs that uses a regular bbq size propane tank, also sold via Amazon for $129.95 at the time of this writing.  Traditional Coleman type stoves can use either the small 1 lb. canisters or the larger bbq sized tanks (converters may be required).  Racks to hold these smaller stoves are also available from most camping retailers.  Important features to look for?  Matchless ignition is a great feature!

To simplify outfitting your kitchen, you can start with a camp kitchen unit that even includes a kitchen sink such as this one from Cabela’s.  ($119.99 at this time)  Don’t forget to include a bucket to allow disposal of your used wash water, as many campgrounds forbid allowing gray water to spill onto the ground.  For pots and pans, your camp cook’s favorite utensils and pans from home can be used in camp, keeping things very simple.

cabelas deluxe camp kitchen

Don’t forget a cooler, or if you are truly going all-out, a dorm sized refrigerator, which actually can be purchased for about the same price as a good quality cooler.  Dorm size refrigerators are also available in two-door designs, with a small size freezer to store ice cream or a bag of ice for iced drinks in summer.  One of the advantages of the dorm size refrigerator is avoiding the melting ice issues.  Not only does more ice need to be purchased regularly during your stay, but the resulting water from the melting ice can ruin food and create a mess.  Other useful or desirable appliances may be things like a toaster oven, toaster, slow cooker, coffee maker (try to get one without a glass carafe to save issues with breakage), and compact microwave.   Another useful item is a sturdy water jug with a spigot, allowing water use in the camp kitchen to become more convenient.  These jugs can be refilled at the campsite’s water spigot, so the capacity doesn’t need to be immense.

Most campgrounds have showers and flush toilets.  If you are camping where these amenities are missing, (very unusual if there is power, but sometimes the showers/toilets are seasonal), you will want alternatives.  Hot water on-demand units designed for portable use exist, and typically use propane to power their water heating abilities.  Solar showers can also be used, although you may want to heat the water with some other method rather than wait for the sun to do it for you.  There are numerous portable toilets as well, and these may be a great idea for night use even if there are restrooms available, saving midnight rushes to the restroom a block away.  Small pop up shelters designed specifically for use with showers and portable potties are available, and usually are easy to set up.  You do NOT want to set up a shower inside of your tent or gazebo, although you may want it nearby.

Don’t forget your pets in your glamping excursions either!  Their usual beds and toys can make the trip, but consider adding additional items such as a playpen (for very small dogs) or crates, as your tent is not as “secure” as your home is in achieving the required safe confinement of your pet.  Also be aware, it is nearly a universal requirement that all pets be on leashes not over 6′ in length at all times and that they are never left in the campsite unattended.  If you are doing the tourist thing, this may require extra planning.  It is too hot most of the year to leave a pet for even short periods of time inside of a car, which means that someone needs to always be with the pet.  For some families, leaving the pet behind in a kennel or with friends might be the wisest choice.  Scheduling your glamping trips in the colder weather of winter, when leaving your pet in the car for short periods of time is possible, may be another choice.  A third choice is bringing along a pet sitter who is specifically along to stay with the pet while you are busy.  Some families may also opt to board their pet for a few days or use pet day care while vacationing, allowing them the best of both worlds.  If this is your plan, make sure you have copies of your pets’ vaccination records and that they are all current & up to date, and make reservations.  Double check the kennel’s requirements about shots and update anything necessary prior to your planned departure.  Using day care in the locations you are visiting may allow you to enjoy your pets company in camp, keep the expense of boarding minimal, and yet get maximum enjoyment out of your vacation.

All that is left is to add the accessories you will use during your glamping vacation, such as sun screen, clothing, towels, washcloths, personal hygiene items, food, spices, dinnerware, flatware, etc. much like you would be using if you stayed in a cabin somewhere.  But then comes the problem of getting all of this gear to your selected location without spending more than you have to.  This is going to be a lot of gear, more than the typical passenger car can comfortably hold.

The solution for hauling all of this can range from getting a larger vehicle for the trip to using a cargo trailer to haul it all.  For many people, the least expensive and most practical solution will be to have a hitch installed and purchase or rent a small cargo trailer to carry their glamping gear.  U-Haul has a “sport” trailer that is towable by any passenger car and carries 45 cubic feet of gear, probably the smallest rent-able cargo trailer on the market.  Their next size up is 4×8, a substantially sized trailer that smaller cars may not be able to tow.  Small open cargo trailers, sold as kits from companies such as Harbor Freight, are often even “foldable” and will go on sale for roughly $350.  Some of these will require their new owners to install a “deck” of plywood to render them usable for hauling your camping gear, and plywood can be used to create side walls to help secure your gear as well.  Once your trailer is loaded, you want to ensure it is securely tied down, whether or not you are using a tarp to weather proof it for the journey.  Cargo nets or ropes are used for this task.  These trailers are also used to build modified tear drops for use for glamping too–the tear drop camper is constructed with the full service kitchen and electrical connectors to power it from the power outlet in the campsite, and the “sleeping compartment” becomes the cargo space for hauling the other gear.  Some glampers use the sleeping area for their bed space and permanently install their air conditioning unit, etc. in it, and the tent becomes the “living space” for the remainder of their time.  This is another option, and for some glampers, it’s a better option.

To ensure your glamping experience isn’t an exercise in misery, don’t forget the following:

1. Set up all equipment at least once  at home prior to leaving.
2. Have a check list of what order things need to be set up and who will set each item up.
3. Estimate the amount of time needed to set up camp.  Glamping excursions are more intensive in terms of set up and tear down.  New equipment also takes longer to set up, due to a lack of familiarity, than equipment that has been used numerous times before.  With more practice, both set up and take down get faster and more efficient, and the more people there are to help, the faster both are.
4. Have a check list of what order things need to be loaded into the vehicle (or trailer) for easy set up in camp.
5. Plan your travel so that you arrive at your campsite with enough time to set up before dark.  Try to have some “wiggle room” in case of travel incidents like flat tires, wrong turns, detours, heavy traffic, etc.
6. Plan a quick & easy meal for that first night in camp, or bring along take-out food.
7. Use lists for each person’s personal items, from clothing to bedding and personal hygiene.
8. For tear down, make a list of what needs packed first, and which items need disassembled first. Calculate the amount of time required.  This is important, as most campgrounds have a “check out” time, and you will need to at least be close to this time frame, as well as have enough time to return home and unpack.
9. Most of all, don’t panic when you realize something has been forgotten.  It’s a fact of life these days in America…we’re never far from a Walmart!  (or other store)  Forgotten items can be replaced, whether its shampoo, dog food, or bed sheets.
10. Always police your campsite before departure, picking up stray bits of trash that may have escaped attention before, and ensuring that nothing has been left behind.  Most “lost” equipment happens at the departure point, whether it is left on top of the vehicle to blow off or left behind at the campsite during loading.

Camping does not have to be an endurance test.  It doesn’t have to be an exercise in deprivation.  The primary purpose of camping is to exchange your normal environment for one with new and improved scenery, usually of the natural sort.  Camping is about creating a portable home-away-from-home that suits the individual and his or her companions.  While purists may object to trailers, RVs, spacious tents, air conditioning, heaters, comfortable beds, elaborate kitchens, and electronic devices, these too have a place at the campground, and offer camping to a variety of people that cannot or will not sleep on the ground in a sleeping bag in a tent for whatever reason.  Don’t look down on these campers as being “sissies” or “tenderfeet”–many of them have paid decades of dues on the trail humping a backpack up one slope after another.  Many others have spent a lifetime wishing they were capable of it.  Glamping can offer camping to more people that otherwise would miss out on the experience, whether it is due to health issues or fear.  It lets those who have a spouse who is unwilling or incapable of “roughing it” still get out and enjoy nature.  It allows families to explore nature safely and in a non-threatening manner.

Most of all, remember that those who learn about nature, national parks, state parks, national forests, camping, campgrounds, and the long list of activities they provide are the same people that help protect these wonderful assets to our great country.  Those who never use these places and don’t know what a valuable asset they are, are the same people who are going to be unwilling to help support their preservation and protection.  You may groan as you see that overloaded motor home groaning up the gravel road towards your favorite haunts, complete with television antennae, generator, and satellite internet…but its occupants are going to be much more  likely to be concerned about the fate of your favorite haunt than someone lurking in the urban jungle and shopping at the mall.

 

Geometry lesson on a bike

Bicycles have a lot of geometry in them.  It’s all about the interaction of these geometric shapes, the engineering of how the sprocket moves the chain which ultimately turns the wheel, and how that assembled bunch of metal carries a load on it.  With a bicycle, that load happens to be the rider, primarily.

When you change anything, it will be amazing how much that one change will affect the entire equation, even if you did not see it as part of the whole.

In my case, it was the handlebars.  The low rise mountain bike bar was forcing me to put too much stress on arms, shoulders and wrists and I needed to change the position.  One reader suggested bar ends, but they looked peculiar to me, and I was afraid that they’d be hard to get used to, so I opted to change the handlebars.

I put on a set of matte black cruiser handlebars.  They are beautiful, and entirely change the bike’s appearance.  It also changed a lot of other things.  The first thing to come to attention was the brake cables.  We had to loosen the bar to even attach the left (front brake) cable, and it was still very short.  When I went to push the bike from our work area towards the driveway, it was also apparent that it affected the rear as well–it locked up the rear brake when I turned the bike to the right.  So, we got brakes adjusted, they looked good, and it was time for my first test ride.

My daughter was a better bicyclist at 2 than I was.  You would have sworn I had no clue how to ride a bike.  I couldn’t even get on it and start to pedal before I was falling over.  The familiar bike I had put so many miles on was now unfamiliar and ungainly.  So, first step was to drop the seat about two inches, to make it easier to mount the bike and start off.  Maybe.

Then, it was fine adjustments to brakes, as I had very little brake action when I pedaled the first twenty feet.  That didn’t take long, and I tried a few more wobbly rides up and down in front of the driveway, not daring to venture any further.  Our initial plan of a leisurely ride to the corner store and back (about a mile round trip) was shelved.  I needed more practice closer before I dared ride alongside a country road, as I wobbled and tried to steer.

The position was MUCH more comfortable, but it seemed awkward to ride the bike now.  It’s unstable and wobbly.  I’m not sure how much of it is due to the fact its just “different” or if it is a case of this mountain bike cannot have the rider ride upright because of the engineering issues created by the design itself.  It’s a triangle balancing over a pair of wheels, really, and if that triangle isn’t configured correctly, it’s that much more difficult to maintain your balance.  The triangle is formed by your seat, your feet on the pedals, and your hands on the handlebars.  If you mentally look at how those shapes are formed on different designs of bikes, you can easily see that the bigger the triangle, the more easily your weight is spread out over the center of mass.

In a road bike, designed for speed, you see the base of the triangle as the line between pedals and seat, coming forward to the handlebars, which are situated low to put the rider’s head lower for less wind resistance.  Ideally, they are presenting a long, low silhouette with little resistance to wind, their head is not much out of that triangular arrangement. They will have very thin, smooth tires and usually use a 700 cc wheel.  Typically these bikes are geared for maximizing speed potential.

The mountain bike rider is presenting a lower silhouette, but not as smooth as the road bike racer.  Their pedals are  just slightly in front of the vertical line created by their seat post,   allowing the rider to easily stand on the pedals for better force going up a steep incline or for navigating through rough terrain. These bikes will typically have very knobby tires and a 26″ wheel, and usually sport a number of gears, including some that are geared quite low for steep inclines.

The comfort or cruiser bike rider is sitting upright, with their legs slightly more forward than the mountain bike’s rider has his or her feet, so that their triangle has different angles and could be construed as more of a rectangle.  Here, wind resistance is a non-issue–the comfort rider isn’t trying to set records for speed, but rather seeks to enjoy the process of riding and viewing their surroundings.  Handlebars are wider and higher, seats are larger, and the bikes are heavier.  They will have tires typically as wide, if not wider, than a mountain bikes, although they will not have the dramatic knobs that are found on the mountain bike tires, they are probably going to be a 26″ rather than a 700 cc wheel as well.  Cruisers or comfort bikes are less likely to have gears, and if they do, are apt to have fewer gears than are found on road, touring, or mountain bikes.  They are designed more for the park path than for rough terrain or the open highway.

Touring bikes are built with a lot of features from the other bikes, but generally speaking, they are going to be a longer and heavier frame to allow for heavier packs and panniers, and longer trips with minimal maintenance necessary.  They are more upright than standard road bikes, but lower than a standard “comfort” bike.  These bikes will also usually have 12-18 gears, with some gears low enough to manage mountain inclines.  Their tires are usually a bit heavier and wider than a road bikes, but avoiding the knobby textures preferred by mountain bike enthusiasts.  These bikes are usually not outfitted for truly rough trails, but rather for the vast majority of country roads and highways.

I’ve looked at the bikes offered at Walmart.  Considering that their prices are now nearing the same level as are found at most bike shops, I think I’ll consult a bike shop before any more bike shopping occurs.  I want some professional advice before I do any more battling with the restrictions of bicycle manufacturers and my own personal needs.  In the past, I really liked the Trek Navigators I saw, even if I despised the sales staff at the stores I originally visited prior to making my first bike purchase.  There is an alternative store about 50 miles away, and I like the looks of their website, and suspect that it might be a bit more “user friendly” to the not-so-cute older bicycle user.  I actually already suspect that my original choice of a mountain bike as a more in-the-middle-of-the-choices as a less-informed, and ultimately more expensive choice.  (After calculating costs, I’ve already spent $50 in upgrades, and can’t make it past the driveway now without a wobble…it’s not going well.)

It’s never easy to admit you made a mistake, and costly mistakes are even more agonizing to confess to.  This may end up being my most costly mistake of 2010.